I have never been to an Italian restaurant that didn’t offer free bread to snack on while looking over the menus; at least, until I came to Sardella. Located just a short drive or a half-hour walk from campus in the middle of Clayton, Sardella is an amalgamation of culture and tradition: The restaurant prides itself on blending flavors from the old and the new, from Italy and from right here in St. Louis.

Although the restaurant only opened in the fall of 2016, it’s already earned its reputation as one of “St. Louis’ Best New Restaurants,” according to Feast Magazine. After all, it was the brainchild of Gerard Craft, the chef who won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest for his restaurant Niche, Sardella’s predecessor.

Seconds after we walk in, late one Saturday night, we’re led to a wraparound booth nested in a cozy alcove. The walls are covered with blue and white mosaics, a welcome contrast from the clean wooden lines of the bar and tables. The lighting is soft, warm, colorful; the decoration is Mediterranean. Despite the fact that Sardella is the upscale sibling of sister restaurant Pastaria, the atmosphere is laid-back, relaxed and undeniably cozy.

We take our time looking over the menus, which are short but boast a unique medley of dishes. The prices are fairly high, which is expected, considering the quality of the fare. After an animated discussion with our waitress, who recommends a couple of sophisticated-sounding specials, we finally order and settle in. The small space is perfect for conversation with friends, and time seems to fly by. Surprisingly, only a few minutes pass before our appetizers arrive, and what appetizers they are.

The hamachi crudo is beautifully plated and the Prosciutto di Parma is just the right amount of salty, but the real highlight of the night comes in the form of dinner rolls. The perfect golden-brown crust is deliciously flaky with just the right amount of chew, while the soft and fluffy insides simply melt in the mouth. To top it off, the peach-thyme flavored butter is a modern, novel twist on the traditional bread and butter.

The entrées soon follow, and I’m presented with the too-common dilemma of having too little pasta and too large an appetite. The disparate ingredients of the ricotta cavatelli blend nicely, however, and I am left satisfied. On the other hand, the braised short rib is merely an average cut of meat, despite its hefty price tag.

To end our meal, we decide to pass on dessert and instead order another trio of glorious dinner rolls. We set out into the night with our pockets considerably lightened, stomachs full and hearts glad.