When I found out about Mango, I instantly thought, “Peruvian cuisine? That’s an option in St. Louis?” I felt that a trip to a restaurant specializing in South American cuisine was well warranted, if only to resolve my newly piqued curiosity. After passing through a heavy curtain that left me a little off-kilter, I entered the dimly lit dining room. The restaurant displays a fusion of modern and traditional Peruvian art, combining eras into a chic atmosphere. Once seated, I was given complimentary fried plantains with a spicy, guacamole-like dipping sauce that immediately received sounds of approval. If you’re 21 and love sweet wine, order the sangria. The pitcher for the wine is actually a delightful clay jug and throws in a bit more of that well-appreciated authentic flair.

I then saw on the menu the one dish I could recognize: empanadas. I felt compelled to order the baked pastries brimming with beef, raisins, Spanish olives and peppers. My eyes marveled at their aesthetics: Soft peaks of glossy, golden dough, spiraled shut around the edges, luring me in. The first bite, however, left me feeling duped. The bread was deceptively dense and once I reached the meat, I discovered the pervasive acidity of the olives, though the other pastry had enough raisins to tone down the severe taste.

The Ensalada Exotica with chicken was my second mistake of the night. Mixed greens, roasted red peppers, mango, almond slices, cilantro and chicken in a citrus dressing, if executed correctly, seemed like a nice combination of texture and flavor. Instead, salty lemon juice pooled at the bottom, leaving the miserable greens practically inedible. The unseasoned chicken tasted flat. Other aspects of the meal saved the evening. The delicious sweet juice and the crunch of the mango slices, which came lightly coated with dressing, were unadulterated perfection—easily my favorite moments of the night.

I also ordered the Lomo Saltado—sirloin steak strips stir-fried with sweet onion, tomatoes, garlic and Peruvian peppers, accompanied by white rice and a “garnish” of steak fries. Yes, fries—actually a traditional side for this dish. They might have been incorporated better as a base to the dish though. The steak juices stole complex flavors from the other stir-fried ingredients and the tomatoes even tasted a hint beefy. I also ordered the Aji de Gallina. For this dish, think tough chicken in a flavorful, hearty Parmesan cheese and walnut sauce that packs a little spice from the Aji Amarillo pepper commonly used in Peruvian food.

For dessert, I decided on Pionono, a sponge cake rolled in dulce de leche. The cake lacked the typical moist, spongy consistency, but this barely fazed me. The cake was served warm with powdered sugar on top, and when my fork reached the oozing dulce de leche, which was literally pooling out of the center of the roll, I could not help but feel a little giddy.

Overall, I can now say I’ve experienced Peruvian cuisine, though I may have been able to find better South American food elsewhere.