Restaurant review: Three Flags Tavern

Brock Workman | Food Editor

RATING:

It is hard to hear the name “Three Flags Tavern” and not be reminded of a certain classic Washington University hangout and happy hour spot north of campus, but this incognito tavern nestled away on Southwest Avenue plays a much different game than Three Kings Public House. While Three Kings is known for its social environment, Delmar Loop access and extensive beer menu, Three Flags has a more gentle approach, with more intricately crafted food and a relaxing ambience.

Just a stone’s throw away from the Missouri Botanical Garden, Three Flags fits about just as many diners inside as it does on its spacious open-air outdoor deck. Both the inside and the deck have bars, meaning that nightlife is an option regardless of the season, and brunch is also provided on weekends. Given that it was a perfect autumn evening, I elected to sit on the deck.

Three Flags Tavern sits on Southwest Avenue in St. Louis. The restaurant takes a modern twist on American tavern fare.Brock Workman | Student Life

Three Flags Tavern sits on Southwest Avenue in St. Louis. The restaurant takes a modern twist on American tavern fare.

Despite having the tavern feel and the multiple bars, the food at Three Flags pushed a little higher on the fine-dining spectrum than I initially predicted. Their appetizers include pickled deviled eggs and lobster beignets, which blended the creamy lobster filling with sweet beignet flavor surprisingly well. I also was able to try their oyster happy hour dish. The oysters were well-shucked and tasty enough for someone who grew up on Midwest seafood, but if you’re from the coast and used to the fresh catch, you should have appropriately curbed expectations.

When ordering my main dish, my waiter noted that they had won awards for best burger for their ground brisket burger, which was an opportunity I was not able to pass up. The burger was thick and not overly juicy, and it had just the right amount of bacon to not overwhelm the other flavors included in the mix. The fries were seasoned exceptionally well and paired with the slightly sweet house sauce that came with the dish. I was actually uncertain if the sauce was for the fries or the burger, but I tried dipping both and was pleased with the results. The sauce added just the right amount of juiciness to the burger and enhanced the flavor of the meat rather than overwhelming it. I do not think this would count as my favorite burger of all time, but as a flagship entree item, it was incredibly well put together.

A Seranno-wrapped pork loin chop is topped with pickled peaches and a goat cheese crema at Three Flags Tavern. The restaurant features a full bar and upscale tavern food.Brock Workman | Student Life

A Seranno-wrapped pork loin chop is topped with pickled peaches and a goat cheese crema at Three Flags Tavern. The restaurant features a full bar and upscale tavern food.

With Three Flags Tavern being a good 10- or 15-minute drive from campus, it might not be the ideal spot for regular dinners with close friends, but the high-quality food and comfortable atmosphere definitely has a purpose. It is a great place to grab a nice meal before a date at the Botanical Gardens or to unwind at night with some casual drinks and tasty appetizers under the stars after a long day. Additionally, make sure not to sleep on this place if you are a brunch connoisseur. Their selections are classic, but much like their dinner entrees, they are infused with unique flavors that bring out the character in the dishes.

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