Stepping Out
Mosaic Bistro Market
14 N. Central Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63105
(314) 932-7377
http://www.mosaictapas.com
Good for: small plates and fusion cuisine
It’s official: St. Louis has an obsession with small plates. Everywhere I go, I’m met with cheese boards and mini-salads. Mosaic Bistro Market is just one Clayton restaurant in on this trend.
Mosaic Bistro Market is the offspring of Mosaic Downtown, one of four locales owned by the Schmitz family—Mosaic Lounge and Prime 1000 are the others. Having gone to these eateries, I was excited to finally try the Mosaic Bistro Market.
Claus Schmitz, the original Mosaic restaurateur, identifies his restaurants as “fusion” cuisine. Upon entering Mosaic Bistro Market, I had to wonder if “fusion” was a code word for “identity crisis.” First of all, I had no idea where the “Market” came into play—or if it was ever in existence. I’m not even sure I’d even describe the space as a “Bistro,” a word that, to me, implies quaint Parisian charm.
Instead, Mosaic Bistro Market seemed to emit a cool, modern atmosphere. The large rectangular dining area was brightly lit and dominated by shades of white, with one small bright orange wall. The kitchen was visible through a large window, which was rather charming.
Despite my inability to define the restaurant’s identity, the food was excellent. Though the menu had relatively few options—18 total—all the dishes sounded appealing.
Ringing in at $8 to $9, any of Mosaic’s salads could make a great starter—they’re on the small side, but they feature great ingredients. The Bibb Lettuce Salad included the delectable, though predictable, combination of goat cheese, walnuts and strawberries, with a fresh balsamic dressing that lightly coated the crisp lettuce.
Though slightly pricier, the Seared Salmon Nicoise completely hit the mark. Perfectly seared salmon—a little crusty but still maintaining that melt-in-your-mouth tenderness—was topped with arugula, fingerling potatoes and haricots verts, or a kind of bitter green bean. The potatoes and haricots verts beefed up the small serving of salmon, and the vinaigrette was mind-blowing. A blood orange base made this light dressing citrusy and vibrant, a perfect complement to the warm fish.
If fish isn’t your thing, try the Charcuterie Plate. It’ is great for sharing and samples Mosaic’s favored meats, pâté and rillettes. These meat spreads are served with homemade pickles. The plate featured so many different flavors—spicy meats against subtle mustard, smooth rillettes on crunchy crostini, perfectly sour pickles. If you’re a fan of meats and cheeses, this is the plate to order.
In addition to its variety of small plates, the menu features entrées ranging from $16 to $24, including a wide array of meats and fish—rabbit “daube” (stew), lamb, chicken, scallops, lobster and steak—plus a mushroom ravioli. Though I can’t attest to trying any of the entrées—their specialty small plates alone certainly make a satisfying meal—our waitress emphasized Mosaic’s proclivity for slow-cooking; I’d be willing to hazard a guess that the dishes are complex and would not disappoint.
If you’re a fan of what appears to be the new trend of Clayton dining—small restaurants featuring small plates—Mosaic Bistro Market is the perfect spot to add to your list.