Brasserie by Niche is a great choice for upscale dining.

When considering the St. Louis restaurant scene, there are many choices for upscale dining. Then there are restaurants that take it to the next level. What’s the difference? A taste of the country French fare of Brasserie by Niche clearly has the answer.

The first thing I noticed when I stepped through Brasserie’s doors was the intoxicating aroma of food cooked in butter and wine. Large antique cognac advertisements fittingly decorated the dining room’s warm-toned walls, and a simple sheet of brown butcher paper and a small candle adorned each table, creating a cozy, unintimidating atmosphere.

In this quaint setting, my friend and I began our meal with a satisfying glass of Beaujolais and bowl of vichyssoise, a cold, creamy potato soup topped with a drizzle of chive puree and served with crusty bread. Next came a thick slice of the country pâté, composed mostly of duck liver, dotted with pistachios and pieces of duck heart. It was just soft enough to spread onto the crostini that accompanied it—the pâté was presented on a plain rustic wooden board. The somewhat strong gaminess of the pâté was complemented by the tanginess of some whole grain mustard dabbed on top.

I feasted on a lightly seared skate wing for the main course. At first the fish appeared a little fibrous and I feared it might be tough. To my great delight, however, it had a tender melt-in-your-mouth quality, revealing a mild pleasant flavor that stood up to its lemony sauce and bits of cauliflower and capers.

The most outstanding dish of the meal came last: pithivier, a flaky, buttery pastry filled with almond paste and served with a dollop of brandy ice cream. It was a classic marriage of flavors and textures: nutty, buttery, crispy and creamy—a fine way to end a great meal.

Service at Brasserie was well-timed despite the dinner rush, and the wait staff was courteous and helpful. The menu is quite reasonably priced for its good quality, though this restaurant is probably still best saved for a special occasion. Cocktails, wines by the glass and small plates average $8 with main courses around $18 and desserts at $6. The restaurant also offers a frequently changing Menu du Jour, a three-course meal for $30.

What makes Brasserie so special is the concurrent simplicity and excellence of its dishes. You probably won’t find any experimental dishes or bizarre-sounding flavor combinations on the menu. Instead, the recipes seem simple, each favoring a few high-quality ingredients cooked with time and care. It’s classic and satisfying. It’s fine dining.