Moxy Bistro
Rating: 4.5/5
4584 Laclede
St. Louis, MO 63108
314-361-4848
$10-25
Moxy’s Web site prominently features the definition of the bistro’s intriguing name: know-how, expertise, courage, determination and energy. This is quite a bold claim to make when naming a restaurant and, as few eateries manage to live up to such standards, we thought we had better visit the restaurant and see for ourselves whether or not this Central West End bistro was the real deal.
Moxy is conveniently located just off of Euclid, which is only a short car ride from campus. The downstairs seating is intimate, with only seven or eight tables and a sleek, well-stocked, blue and silver bar that gives the room a retro edge. There is a new lounge and bar called M in the upstairs area of the restaurant that features a smaller version of the menu. Also, in the summer there is ample seating outside for those who enjoy people watching on the busy street.
When we sat down at one of the dining room’s silver tables we received our menus and began perusing the exciting dishes. We were given a fresh plate of whole grain farmers’ bread and a delicious bowl of garlic preserved in oil. Our energetic server was knowledgeable about the food and wine offered at Moxy and was extremely helpful in leading us to solid choices.
After a short, happy period of munching on some of the best garlic and bread that we have had in this city, a shower of beautiful dishes descended upon us. The grouper arrived perfectly cooked, flaky in its freshness and wonderfully complemented by a sweet basil sauce and a tart tomato risotto that cut the softness of the fish. The fresh sushi-quality yellowfin tuna was just barely seared and melted easily in our mouths. The deep pink flesh was coated in wonton wrappers and lightly fried, lending a crunch to its otherwise smooth texture, and the sushi rice and wasabi marinade offered a spicy and vinegary yet slightly sweet punch.
Moxy shines at making pasta, too. The butternut squash tortellini came in a browned butter sauce accented with prosciutto and peas and was a big hit. The squash added a sweetness that was well balanced by the light buttery sauce, and the hint of salt from the prosciutto rounded out the dish.
The chipotle maple-glazed salmon was the only disappointment of the night. Though the glaze lent the fish a nice texture on the outside, there was only a slight hint of sweet maple and virtually no spice from the chipotle. The corn salsa accompanying the fish consisted of little more than kernels of the Midwestern grain and could also have used a bit more spice.
Though dinner at Moxy is great it can be a bit hard on the wallet, so definitely try to get your parents to take you when they are in town. Those looking for a great meal for half the price should visit Moxy at lunch. Many of the entr‚es that are on the dinner menu are also on the lunch menu, but at a significantly lower price. The short rib sandwich offered at lunch, for example, is a fantastic bargain at $8 compared to the short rib dinner entr‚e, which goes for $19. Two large, crispy pieces of bread that managed not to melt away into a soggy mess came chock full of mouthwateringly tender beef that had been braised for hours in a sweet yet tangy tomato, caramelized onion stew.
A Thai salad served at dinner as an appetizer was served as an entr‚e during lunch. Though it was a bit more simplistic than we expected, with a relatively boring peanut dressing and few exciting vegetables, the perfectly plump, moist coconut fried shrimp served on top were phenomenal. There are few places where we have tried shrimp as tender and moist as the ones we ate at Moxy.
When looking at the definition of Moxy on their Web site, we were dubious that the restaurant would manage to live up to its claims. We were happily mistaken. Eric Brenner, owner and head chef of the Central West End eatery, has scored a true hit with Moxy Bistro. His numerous accolades speak to his success – in 2006, he received the award for Best Chef by the River Front Times. Brenner also owns the award winning French restaurant Chez Leon, which is located just next door to Moxy.