Falling “out of the Loop” isn’t necessarily a bad thing, especially if you’re trying to explore and look for something new. Seeking a little adventure for my taste buds, I recently ventured just east of the Delmar Loop to sample the delectable African offerings of Nubia Café.

Despite the drab feel of this part of Delmar, I stepped inside the restaurant to a spacious world of rich colors: dark walls and mahogany tables accented with ruby reds, lush greens and brilliant golds. Relaxing Latin and African rhythms filled the room as I perused the West African and Caribbean menu, which was full of variety: stews of chicken, beef, fish and goat, as well as jerk chicken, vegetarian dishes and some more exotic items like goat head.

We began with soft plantains delicately fried to a rich brown, cut into bite-sized pieces and neatly arranged on a platter with a dab of jerk sauce. A slight tartness in the center gave way to sweetness and a rich caramelized outer layer. A dip in peppery sauce made for a pleasant sweet-savory combination.

Next came entrées: egusi stew, steamed tilapia and red beans with rice. All were generous in size and elegantly presented on large white plates.

The egusi stew consisted of a base of dried, ground shrimp and egusi seeds (something like watermelon seeds), stewed with tender chunks of dark meat chicken, spinach, onions and a medley of African spices. The flavors combined beautifully. The stew came with a warm, sticky ball of pounded yam, which—contrary to popular belief—is actually different from a sweet potato. Its earthy flavor and starchy texture made it the perfect canvas for the bold flavors of the stew.

The steamed tilapia arrived whole—head, tail and all on a mound of lightly spiced rice pilaf dotted with peas, onions, carrots and red pepper. The dish could have easily fed two. The fish had been rubbed in spices and was pleasantly moist and mild.

The red beans with rice consisted of a mound of tender red kidney beans in a light tomato-based sauce atop another colorful field of the same rice pilaf. While perhaps lacking in excitement, the dish was hearty and satisfying.

My only complaint is that a few of the menu descriptions are lacking in detail, which makes it difficult for those unfamiliar with the cuisine. The food, atmosphere and service, however, are excellent.

Go to Nubia to get your spice fix, try something new or enjoy a nice but still casual dinner with friends. If you have questions, just ask. Nubia’s British-African-American proprietor has a true passion for the food he serves and was most helpful to my party in selecting and learning about our dishes. Nubia regularly hosts comedy, karaoke and jazz events and offers catering services. Step out of the Loop and check it out!