Stepping Out
Eleven Eleven Mississippi
1111 Mississippi Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63104
(314) 241-9999
Eleven Eleven Mississippi offers a pecorino flan with honey-dressed beet and pear salad. The restaurant has entrées at around $20.
I ordered the stuffed artichoke with sausage, spinach and Parmesan, which sounded promising. Unfortunately, the sensitive flavor of artichoke was pushed aside in favor of heavy-handed sundried tomato and Parmesan. The sausage seemed unnecessary, adding even more flavoring on top of an already overwrought dish.
I then tried the honey-dressed beet and pear salad that came with a pecorino flan. A light and fluffy substance usually found on the dessert menu, the flan managed to caress and confuse my taste buds. Pecorino, a cheese seen often in Italy but rarely here, has a slight bite to it, and was skillfully employed to offset the sweetness of the orangey honey dressing.
Another interesting combination: wild mushroom with artichoke, polenta, arugula and Parmigiano-Reggiano. These items were all piled into a mound for my entrée, making for an objectionable-looking pile of food. Oil both glistened on the top of this mess and pooled at the bottom of it. Though the taste of the wild mushroom and polenta did not disappoint, there was just too much grease. However, the dish’s flavor was on point: The fancy Parmesan (that is Parmigiano-Reggiano) melted pleasingly over sautéed mushroom, and though the artichoke again fell by the wayside, the polenta was soft and welcoming beneath it all.
Don’t let the oil-happy nature of some of Eleven Eleven Mississippi’s dishes dissuade you from trying the restaurant’s dessert—like the cream-cheesey chocolate cake served inside an almond lace basket, decked with fresh berries and ice cream. The cream cheese was an inspired choice, and the entire dish was focused on the delicious chocolate and the berries, which weren’t lost among the other flavors.
I should note that the restaurant’s liquors and wines seem extensive and carefully chosen. There is a “liquid dessert” menu with choices like hot cocoa and butterscotch Schnapps, which sounded delicious.
Eleven Eleven Mississippi makes up in good cheer and rich, cheesy goodness what it lacks in subtlety, though at around $20 an entrée you may consider waiting for Parents Weekend to check it out.