The Dough-Down: A guide to St. Louis donut institutions

| Scene Reporter
The apple fritters from John’s Donuts (pictured in the foreground) are highly recommended.

The apple fritters from John’s Donuts (pictured in the foreground) are highly recommended.

“Mmm…doughnuts.” As Homer Simpson recognizes, a doughnut is one of those rare treats that’s hard to screw up and thus consistently satisfies. But if you’re looking to indulge in something above the likes of Dunkin’ Donuts and even Krispy Kreme, St. Louis is certainly the right place. Our city has a surprising number of excellent doughnut shops that practically call out to the stomachs of hungry college students.

Rest assured, the following are truly the best of the best. Let’s have at ’em!

John Donut Co.
1618 S. Broadway

Located in Soulard just a block from the farmers market, John Donut Co. appeals to the college crowd, if only for one defining feature: It opens each night at 11 p.m., making it perfect for a late-night study snack or post-drinking meal. But the store is not listed here for that reason alone—its doughnuts are just as fantastic as the business hours.

The dough’s taste and texture usually distinguish one doughnut shop from the next. John Donut certainly has top-notch dough. Recommended favorites include the apple fritter, blueberry and buttermilk. The glaze features just the right amount of sweetness, with an unusual hint of saltiness; the consistency of the glaze is also superior to most others, applied in an even coating without the sugary lumps that you might find at some lesser shops.

Despite being the farthest from Wash. U., the ride over is just a quick hop on I-64. If you’re going late at night, definitely bring a friend, as the area can feel a little sketchy in the wee hours.

World’s Fair Doughnuts
1904 S. Vandeventer Ave.

The classic signage at World’s Fair Donuts transports you to a different era.

The classic signage at World’s Fair Donuts transports you to a different era.

Located south of Forest Park by the Botanical Garden, World’s Fair Doughnuts is as authentic a location as it gets. This humble white-brick shop on a busy street corner has clearly not been redone or renovated since the day it was built, and that’s just the way it should be.

Penny runs the register while her co-owner tends to the doughnuts in back, just as they’ve done for 33 years. Of course, the real tradition to be celebrated here is their doughnut recipe. The dough has a wonderful crisp crust surrounding a fluffy interior.

Unsurprisingly, the classic choices are typically the best here, but be sure to try their apple fritter as well; it may be smothered in a thick glaze, but underneath is an intriguing, coffee cake-like fritter with flavors of apples and cinnamon. For something a little different, try one of the fried pies (go with a fruit filling), a handheld treat that certainly rivals the doughnuts.

Most importantly, ask if there are any hot, fresh miniature glazed doughnuts available. The way they just melt in your mouth is purely divine. There’s no seating inside the shop, so head just a few blocks south to Tower Grove Park and enjoy your doughnuts by the pond among the fake ruins and fountains.

Donut Drive-In
6525 Chippewa St.

The offerings at Donut Drive-In are both playful and delicious.

The offerings at Donut Drive-In are both playful and delicious.

Just a short drive south along Skinker right by Ted Drewes is Donut Drive-In, which has been in business since 1952—the longest of the three establishments. The experience of the shop shows: The butter twist is simply awesome, perhaps the best butter twist out of the three shops. It is light and flaky with a thin glaze that is not too sweet but, instead, totally original.

Also excellent is the buttermilk doughnut, which is airy and fluffy. Its taste carries a hint of coffee. The dough of the more-traditional offerings has a bread-like consistency and taste, refreshing in its subtle approach to sweetness. Once again, there’s no seating inside, but no matter, as you’ll probably be grabbing these doughnuts as a nighttime treat to bring back to the dorms, thanks to the store’s late hours: The shop is open until 10:30 p.m. on Wednesday and Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday.

Each doughnut shop has its own unique merits, so I encourage you to try them all when you get the chance. Pay close attention to the dough and glaze—it is these characteristics which make each shop unique. The staffs of all three stores are incredibly friendly, owing in part to the fact that a majority of workers have been at the job for quite a long time, and doughnuts are their life’s passion. Be sure to chat them up, and don’t be afraid to ask for their recommendations if you’re feeling overwhelmed by the extensive selections.

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