CADENZA STAFFWhile it is no secret that you go to the Hill for the best Italian food in St. Louis, this ethnic enclave has much more to offer.
For over a hundred years the Hill, appropriately named since it is the highest point in the city, has been a vibrant and thriving ethnic Italian community neatly nestled in south St. Louis between Hampton Ave and Highway 44.
“You really never have to leave the neighborhood, it’s a small town in a city,” said 42-year resident Dan Drago.
The streets are lined with single story red brick bungalow homes. Each yard takes on its on unique character with individual flower and herb gardens, small statues, and homemade flowerpots.
Upon entering the Hill you will notice the fire hydrants are painted the green, white and red colors of the Italian flag. You may want to get out of the car to check out the St. Ambrose church at the corner of Marconi and Wilson. Outside the walls of this elegant Romanesque style icon stands a bronzed statue of an immigrant family capturing the common heritage of this Catholic immigrant community.
Around the corner the octogenarians, who have lived in the Hill their whole lives, can be found crowding the sand courts of the Italian American Bocce Club, throwing bocce balls, joking around and enjoying beer and pizza and card games in Milo’s Bocce Garden.
You may want to stroll over to 5400 Elizabeth Ave. to see the childhood homes of Baseball Hall of Famers Yogi Berra and Joe Garagiola, who grew up right across the street from one another.
While poking around be sure to pop into the bakeries and grocery stores. At Urzi’s Italian Market on Southwest Ave. you can find the perfect parmesan, olive oil, salami, and Chianti.
Heritage of the Hill:
Italian immigrants first settled in the Hill in the 1890s to work in clay mines and as smelters. Since then the Hill has retained much of the character of this isolated enclave as the city of St. Louis grew up around it.
While some of St. Louis German, Czech, and Polish neighborhoods have dissipated over time, the Hill remains a vibrant, healthy community where 75 percent of the residents are still Italian.
There is such demand for the real estate in the quiet and pristine neighborhood that many houses are sold through family connections, never becoming available on the real estate market.
Like the many cobblestone streets, the crime-free caring community of the Hill did not just fall into place. Dedicated citizens have organized an executive oversight board, Hill 2000, which commits itself to community organizing and combating neighborhood deterioration.
Dan Drago, a Director of Hill 2000, notes how, in addition to overseeing the development of the neighborhoods, the group organizes community celebrations such as the famous Columbus day parade and the annual Labor Day Giro della Montagna bicycle race.
“We just care about our neighborhood. Our young people don’t move out. We are just strong people and we care about one another. It’s like a close family,” explains Drago.
Restaurants:
An evening on the Hill would not be complete, however, without going to one of its many intimate, family-owned restaurants.
You can probably get the most bang for your buck at Zia’s on Wilson Ave. Don’t be deceived by the tight quarters, or the cheap red and white checkered table cloths: Zia’s serves the best authentic Italian food on the hill. Everything on the menu is good, but I always go for the Veal Parmesan.
If the waiting list at Zia’s is too long you may want to wander up to Guido’s on Shaw Street. Owned by Spanish and Italian families, here you can mix paellas, pastas, sangria, and Pizza.
If you want to impress your semi-formal date with something a little more elegant you might want to consider Lorendo’s Trattoria on Edwards Street. This relatively modern restaurant offers interesting additions to the standard Italian menu. Choose between entrees ranging from shrimp risotto to red snapper to a rack of lamb.
For a twenty-first birthday take the party to Rigazzi’s on Daggett. Rigazzi’s has a lively atmosphere, can accommodate big parties, and the food is good and inexpensive. The biggest attraction is, however, the 32 oz. Frozen Fishbowls filled with a draft beer of your choice.
OK, now you know where to go and what to see, so the next time you head for the Hill for dinner, take a couple extra hours to see this fantastic neighborhood.