Ten ordinary people will compete with their pitches for the next great fast-casual (a.k.a. “classy” fast food) American restaurant. The contestants are not chefs like on “Top Chef,” and some of them do not even cook. They all, however, have one thing in common—some really great ideas about the type of food Americans want to eat. The winner will win the opportunity to open up three restaurants somewhere in America, funded by judges Bobby Flay, Curtis Stone, Lorena Garcia and Steve Ells (founder of Chipotle!).

All of the restaurants have the potential to be huge. One woman wants to open up a chain of “stir-fry for the healthy heart,” while another contestant hopes to start up Meltworks to serve “grown-up grilled cheese.” Restaurant ideas come from all around the globe, and contestants will offer authentic Spanish food, convenient Indian food, kabob sliders and my favorite, a restaurant awesomely called Saucy Balls, which has been described as “the ultimate meatball experience.” One contestant even wants to open a “one-man chicken and waffles” operation, just like our very own Village House serves.

It will be interesting to see how these contestants fare (especially the entrepreneurs) in cooking challenges: One promo shows them in a contest that forces them to cook for 1,000 people. Although cooking shows seem to be taking over television these days, “America’s Next Great Restaurant” is different. It focuses not on the contestant, but on the food, and more importantly, the ideas. Check out the premiere episode on Sunday at 7 p.m. on NBC to find out if you could find yourself eating at Saucy Balls, or even saying its name without laughing.

44 N. Brentwood Drive
Clayton, MO 63105
314.721.9400

www.oceanobistro.com

If these wintery days have you in a somber mood, Océano Bistro is sure to put a smile on your face. With a largely seafood inspired menu, each dish is an ode to a coastal city filled with warm sunrays.

The restaurant features primarily seafood, ranging from local Missouri trout to sea bass and scallops. Tropical and Mediterranean undercurrents flow through many of the dishes, like the grilled mahi mahi with seared polenta, sweet tomato marmalade and a blood orange and fennel-citrus relish.

Knowing I would have plenty of seafood options for the second course, I started with the umami Kobe sliders. The two small sandwiches of plump meat, Vermont white cheddar and pickles on airy homemade brioche rolls intrigued me, as I was anxious to sample their bold attempt to capture the elusive “fifth flavor”—umami. Unfortunately, they were a bit dry and lacked the delicate arrangement and vibrant flavors of some of the other appetizers, most notably the spicy blackened bigeye tuna with ginger, roasted red pepper and a spicy mustard emulsion.

Fortunately, the blackened tuna set the tone for the rest of the night. For the entrée, I had the herb-crusted sea bass. The sea bass was seared to a perfect brown and was firm and fresh. The risotto was velvet-like, featuring pureed butternut squash, and complimented the fish rather well. The fish and risotto sat nestled in a ring of Prosecco buerre blanc, a rich sauce made from reduced Italian champagne, vinegar, shallots and butter; however, I could have done without the beurre blanc and more of the smooth risotto.

Other seafood entrees include the grilled farm-raised Atlantic salmon with shaved apple-fennel salad and a bacon wrapped arugula cake with cider jus. While I did not try this dish, the waiter promptly informed the table during ordering that the salmon was raised in an aquaculture farm that he felt was similar to the conditions in which a free-range chicken would live.

I finished my meal with a gooey, semi-sweet phyllo-wrapped brownie. The phyllo crust enveloped the molten brownie in such a crisp shell that you could hear, amongst the chatter of the patrons, the layers of the crust cracking as the spoon dug into them. This Aegean-inspired brownie was topped off with a dollop of vanilla ice cream and surrounded by a vanilla bean flecked crème anglaise—a kind of light custard.

Océano’s meal put the table in such a chipper mood that we stayed chatting after we had finished eating (probably hoping for some other delicious dish to make its way over.) Outfitted in warm colors and bathed in soft light, the restaurant’s ambiance would be perfect if not for the peculiar lack of table cloths. Océano’s atmosphere is casually sophisticated, perfect for an anniversary or celebration with friends, with entrees ranging from $18 to $32. If you go before Feb. 10, you can have their three-item tasting menu for $25—a perfect way to ward off the winter blues and satiate a curious palate.

Located in a midtown parking lot tucked away off Olive St., Pappy’s is known for its almost absurdly delicious Memphis-style ribs.

“Pappy’s is the single best meal you can get in St. Louis. By far the best barbeque I have ever had. It’s all about the ribs,” said senior Adam Savaglio, a frequent diner.

The restaurant has won prestigious awards on several occasions. It’s been voted Best BBQ In St. Louis since 2008 by the Riverfront Times and was featured on Adam Richman’s Man vs. Food during his visit to St. Louis. On your way to the ordering counter, you’ll also see three massive pig-shaped trophies championing the restaurant’s success in whole hog competitions.

Your trip to Pappy’s will begin by taking your place in line. Be sure to plan your trips during off hours; the line can be out the door during lunchtime. And be wary of the dinner trek: Pappy’s only serves its amazing barbeque until it’s gone.

There’s no question about it—Pappy’s is an adventure, and one well worth it. Make it an all-day event, because all that awesome barbeque will put you into a food coma like you’ve never experienced one before.

Netta Sadovsky | Student Life

Tres leches cake with cream, milk, icing, and sprinkles.

Imagine biting into a lightly fried enchilada with layers of golden brown dough and a juicy pulled-chicken filling. If you’re already hungry, head over to Fritanga, a cozy, one-room restaurant that provides authentic Nicaraguan food at decent prices. The word “fritanga” actually designates restaurants that make authentic, homemade Nicaraguan food.

For those of you not familiar with Nicaraguan food, it revolves around staples such as fried plantains, rice and beans and cabbage salad. The food is comparable to Mexican and other Central American varieties but has its own distinct flavor. If you’re on a diet though, beware: Many Nicaraguan dishes are fried.

Fritanga is one of the few restaurants in St. Louis that serves up authentic Nicaraguan food. With a bright outer décor and colorful paintings on the walls, Fritanga offers a lively and unique atmosphere. It is uncompromisingly authentic and refreshingly unaffected by American cuisine—there is no bread and butter served or optional mac-and-cheese sides for kids.

It is hard to find a dish without plantains at Fritanga. Entrees come with a choice of them, sweet or savory, as well as gallo pinto, a typical Nicaraguan dish with rice and red beans, or white rice and Cuban black beans. Main courses also come with repollo salad, a coleslaw-like side dish. The rice and beans are hearty but not overpowering and provide a nice, palette-cleansing break from the main course. The repollo salad is light with no mayo and just a bit of vinegar over chopped cabbage and carrots. The salad adds a tanginess that complements the fried dishes. I had the savory fried plantains, which reminded me of potato latkes with a dash of banana.

For my main dish, I tried the “canoa de maduro,” a whole ripe sweet plantain with shredded beef and a generous portion of melted mozzarella cheese on top. The different consistencies of the firm plantain, fibrous beef and fleshy cheese truly made for a unique eating experience.

I also tried the “pollo al achiote,” a charbroiled chicken breast in “achiote base sauce,” a sauce made of several spices including cumin, oregano and cinnamon. The spices lend a curry-like undertone to the chicken breast, which was cooked only until tender.

For dessert, I had the classic tres leches, a cake which literally means “three milks” and is made with cream, condensed milk and regular milk. The moist, rich tres leches cake was topped with icing and sprinkles, which added a little reminder of childhood. I also tried the banana flan, which sat in a very sweet caramel liquid. The gelatin-like substance itself had a bitter aftertaste, which was mitigated by generously dipping it into the caramel. While the banana flan was good, I would probably opt for the tres leches next time.

With entrees for less than $10, Fritanga is definitely an affordable, cultural escape for Wash. U. students. Once you visit, you’ll be wondering how you ever survived without plantains.

2208 S Jefferson Ave
St, Louis MO, 63118
http://www.fritangastl.net

TANI | 16 S. Bemiston Ave.
The general entrance to the restaurant seems fairly standard, with the usual hostess stand and view of the busy bar and tabled seating along the wall. If you choose to dine in the lounge, prepare yourself to be directed “two doors down” to a long hallway, which leads toward a set of mysterious unmarked doors.
The lounge itself, however, is impressive both in atmosphere and mood. The décor consists of mirrors, simple white furniture and silver accessories. While the lounge looks chic, the atmosphere still manages to be inviting.
ATMOSPHERE:

FOOD:

WASABI | 16 S. Central Ave.
In comparison to Tani’s impressive décor, Wasabi’s ambiance is somewhat off-putting. The seating arrangement is quite narrow, causing crowding when the restaurant is full. Wasabi also features less chic artwork and is simply less “cool” than the others.
ATMOSPHERE:

MISO | 16 N. Meramec Ave.
Miso is arguably the most traditional sushi restaurant of the trio. The lounge area offers hip, unique seating, while the restaurant has traditional indoor and outdoor eating options.
ATMOSPHERE:

THE LOWDOWN: For a trendy atmosphere, check out Tani. For a good all-around sushi restaurant, go to Miso. For standard and inexpensive sushi, Wasabi’s your place.

Bobo Noodle House offers delicious food in a trendy place reminiscent of New York City restaurants. (Matt Mitgang | Student Life)

Rating: 3.5/5 stars
278 N. Skinker Blvd, St. Louis, MO 63130

Bobo Noodle House is the perfect solution for the hungry Washington University student who is in the mood for a special meal but not willing to brave the cold for too long. The 1-year-old restaurant is located about as close to campus as you can get—right next to Kayak’s Coffee. Bobo is small but has a hip atmosphere and serves up some tasty Southeast Asian fare. The menu includes appetizers, salads, pho (a noodle soup), sides and, of course, noodles! In addition, Bobo offers desserts and a full selection of beer, wine and sake.

Upon entering the noodle house, I felt for a moment like I’d been transported to New York City. I found myself admiring the tiny, trendy space, with its dim lighting and paper chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, and an eclectic mix of edgy music playing in the background.

At Bobo, food is ordered as soon as you walk in. Appetizers at Bobo include spring rolls (both vegetarian and pork are available), Asian barbecued spare ribs, and a shrimp summer roll. My friend and I decided to try the summer roll. In addition, we ordered the vegetable dumpling, pho, and the “ginger pork with gailon and egg noodles.”

The shrimp summer roll was perfect for sharing because we were served two large rolls. They came out promptly after we were seated, which surprised and impressed me. The rolls were presented on a clean white rectangular plate. A thin, translucent casing covered a filling of thin vermicelli noodles, basil, shrimp and lemongrass. The roll was garnished with slices of carrot. While the roll was attractive and fresh, my two main complaints were that it was impossible to eat with chopsticks and tasted bland. Luckily, both of these issues were easily resolved. I set the chopsticks aside and ate the roll by simply tearing it apart with my hands. The blandness was quickly fixed by dousing the roll in the spicy chili sauce that accompanied it.

For my main dish, I tried the ginger pork with gailon and egg noodles. The generous serving consisted of tender pieces of pork and a wide variety of colorful vegetables: red and green peppers, sliced carrots, onions and leeks topped with basil. I debated with my friend about the broccoli-like vegetable that was in my dish: Was it bok choy or brocollini? It turns out it was gailon. (Hence the name “ginger pork with gailon.”) Apparently gailon means Chinese broccoli. The sauce in this dish initially seemed mild, but progressive mouthfuls indicated that it had a substantial kick accentuated by chili flavors. While I found the dish quite delicious, I needed to take frequent gulps of my water to turn down the heat, so I wouldn’t recommend this entrée to those who can’t tolerate spicy foods.

For those who would be less inclined to try my pork dish, whether due to vegetarianism or spice intolerance, I’d recommend the other dish we sampled that evening—the vegetable dumpling pho. This dish was served in a wide bowl and consisted of a light broth with firm, vegetable-filled dumplings. The pho also included tofu and scallions. My friend said the tofu was some of the best tofu she has ever had. It was not too soggy or soft but instead had a nice, firm consistency around the outside. While I found the pho a bit bland for my tastes, a dish of chili sauce was offered on the side to compensate.

To finish, my friend and I ordered the chocolate coconut ice cream sandwich, and I must say that this was the highlight of the evening. Creamy coconut ice cream with a sweet and subtle flavor was sandwiched between two moist double chocolate chip cookies. To die for.

I left Bobo Noodle House with a full stomach (the portions are huge) and a smile on my face. I must admit, though, that I also left feeling a bit perplexed. The idea of ordering at a counter seemed odd to me at a restaurant with such a fancy, hip feel. While the service was excellent, I left wondering if I was meant to leave a tip. As I walked out the door, I handed the girl at the counter a couple of bucks. The neutral expression on her face left the mystery unsolved.

Chef Gerard Craft in front of his Niche restaurant.(Courtesy of Jennifer Silverberg Photography)

Just as a painter possesses the intuition to create the perfect brush stroke, a chef uses his talent to make braised pig’s head with the same level of refinement. St. Louis’ own Gerard Craft is such an artist, whose work can be seen at his restaurants Niche and Taste by Niche in Benton Park.

Craft has received accolades for his work, both locally as the winner of Sauce Magazine’s 2008 and 2009 “Favorite Overall Restaurant” and “Chef of the Year” awards, as well as nationally; he was a 2008 Food and Wine “Best New Chef” and was recently named a 2009 James Beard Award Finalist in the Midwest category.

Craft’s culinary career launched from an unexpected beginning. After dropping out of college in Salt Lake City, he began washing cars in the morning and dishes at night. While washing dishes at a local pool hall, Craft started to cook and found that he enjoyed the instant gratification he received after making a dish.

“I found I really liked the atmosphere of the kitchen. I don’t think school was for me,” Craft explained.

After working in restaurants in Utah, New Jersey and Los Angeles, Craft moved to St. Louis to open his first restaurant, Niche, in 2005. When asked why he chose St. Louis, Craft responded, “We wanted to open a restaurant but not go against the current of New York and D.C. Be a bigger fish in a smaller pond. St. Louis seems to appreciate food.”

Craft has certainly elevated St. Louis in the culinary world, as he is the first St. Louis-based chef to be named one of Food and Wine’s “Best New Chefs.”

The philosophy behind Niche is to make great meals. Craft expanded, “[I] let the ingredients speak for themselves. I do it differently at Taste than I do at Niche.”

After closing the bakery next door, Veruca, run by pastry chef Matthew Rice, Craft opened Taste by Niche this past summer. This new venture offers small plates and classic cocktails in an intimate space. On the subject of what prompted him to open Taste, Craft said, “I didn’t feel there was something like it going on [in St. Louis]. We wanted a place where we could hang out. Really good food, not expensive prices, with good cocktails.”

In this period of economic change, Craft is learning to adjust. He noted that the recession has forced him to learn how to create quality food at reasonable prices. Sustainability is also important to Craft: He has forged relationships with many local farmers, and around 98 percent of the protein served at Niche comes from Missouri.

With his love for simple French cuisine in mind, Craft is embarking on a new journey, as he is set to open a new restaurant, Brasserie by Niche, this fall. Brasserie is taking over the space in the Central West End that Chez Leon once inhabited. Craft will be serving up rustic food—a simple steak frite, onion soup or cassoulet, simple brasserie food. “We wanted to bring something again on the more affordable, more approachable take on French food. I think people think French food is over-the-top fancy, unapproachable. I wanted to show brasserie food as it is [in] Paris or Lyon.”

As the culinary world shifts, Craft sees everyday food as the new commodity. “It’s more and more becoming what people are looking for when they go out to eat. They either want high end and perfect or good comfort food.”

Craft’s parting words: “Follow your dreams. Work hard. I’m successful because I love to do it. It would be pretty miserable to do things you don’t love.”

Well, it was their loss. If they had asked, I would have told them about England’s amazing Indian cuisine and the fact that I may have become obsessed with a dish called chana masala.

Inevitably, my first food review back at Wash. U. brought me to a restaurant called House of India. I decided to go out to eat with my vegetarian friend on a Sunday. It just so happens that House of India is indeed one of the only restaurants nearby that is both vegetarian and open on Sundays. (Aside from one restaurant I discovered, which is apparently run by a cult. I decided against that one.)

The restaurant had a bright and pleasant interior. Booths lined the walls, and tables with white cloths graced the center of the room. Rose and light green curtains hung around the windows, which surrounded the dining room. Matching lights hung over the booths. Upbeat Indian music played at an appropriate volume in the background.

Now on to what you really care about: the food. Every day from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., House of India holds a lunch buffet. Classic Indian dishes are offered in addition to a few unique ones you may not have tried before. They serve chicken tikka masala, chana masala, alu gobi, vegetable korma…the list goes on. The buffet was a pretty good deal, too. Without any fancy drinks (we just drank the free water), the whole buffet, which included dessert, cost $8.75 per person.

One of the first dishes I tried, and a favorite among my friends, was a corn salad, which consisted of kernels of corn, cucumbers, tomatoes and red onions. The salad was a refreshing, cool complement to some of the hot and spicy dishes. Another tasty, cool salad called chane-ki-chaat was made with chickpeas, potatoes, chopped cucumber and onions in a mild mint and yogurt sauce.

The warm dishes were all quite good. My favorite was probably the vegetable korma, which was made up of mixed vegetables, including diced potatoes, peas and cauliflower, in a mild curry cream sauce. The chicken tikka masala was also a hit with its tender pieces of roasted chicken breast in a creamy tomato sauce. The alu gobi was another vegetarian masterpiece, made with cauliflower, potatoes, onions and fresh tomatoes.

We also enjoyed the paneer makhni, which was both savory and satisfying. Paneer is a type of cheese made in India and has a texture comparable to tofu. The cheese was sliced into bite-sized squares and mixed in a creamy, buttery tomato sauce. The sauce was outstanding over a bed of white rice. And last but not least, they did indeed serve my beloved chana masala. This chana masala was less sweet than the one I had in England, but it was still quite good. It consisted of steamed chickpeas mixed in a sauce of fresh tomatoes and onions with a hint of ginger and garlic.

After the feast, my friends and I took a breather and then made our way back to the buffet table to try the desserts. A variety of unique options were available. I tried one called jalebi. This bright orange, deep-fried treat was shaped similarly to a pretzel and was about the size of the palm of my hand. It had a crunchy texture and sweet, sugary flavor. My friends remarked that it reminded them of funnel cake, though crunchier but just as delicious.

So whether you’re craving Indian cuisine, have a vegetarian diet or are simply looking for something fun and different to do for lunch, check out the House of India. You certainly won’t leave disappointed, and you most definitely won’t leave with an empty stomach.

8501 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, MO 63124
4/5 stars

A large green banner with the tag “Certified Green Restaurant” practically blocks the entrance. This title is a trademark that only the Green Restaurant Association (GRA) can award. Don’t look for that banner anywhere else: Sassafras is the first GRA-certified restaurant in the state of Missouri.

Ponzi thinks that Sassafras’s environmental commitment is important to customers.

“For us at the Missouri Botanical Garden, we’re marketing the garden,” she said. “So it is definitely to our advantage to offer [environmental conservation] as an attraction.”

This drive for conservation is not new. Many of the restaurant’s endeavors in sustainability, including natural lighting and prominent recycling bins, were in place long before the certification process began.

Some people still doubt, however. One woman, whose husband lectures on environmental issues, could not understand why the restaurant did not serve organic foods, especially juices, which, she said, are easy to make.

“If you have a salad you have a slice of ham,” she said, pointing to the menu. “Ham is [just about] the worst thing you can eat.” Ponzi, however, emphasizes that environmental change is a process.

“There’s plenty more we can do,” she said. “[Certification] is definitely not a be-all and end-all, but it’s definitely something we’re committed to as an institution.”

There are certain obstacles to sustainability. Lynn Heermann, the head chef, tries to buy only local vegetables. He uses organic lettuce and spinach, and he cooked with Missouri tomatoes for about two weeks. But such purchases rely on close relationships with growers which take time and money to maintain.

“The other thing you have to think of is, what will people pay?” he said. “If someone wants a free-range chicken, do they want to pay double the price?”

The restaurant has derived some creative solutions. Heermann was worried about the polystyrene containers that all of his flatbread came in. Instead of throwing them away, he started washing them out and giving them away as extra small to-go containers.

Ponzi and Heermann have worked together since February in the push to become certified. The GRA certifies anything from restaurants to stores to cultural institutions. As well as having the first certified restaurant in the state, the Garden is only the second museum in the country with the distinction.

In return for a variable fee, the GRA recommends four changes to an institution per year. The recommendations derive from a detailed survey which covers everything from the restaurant’s construction to the model numbers for each piece of equipment. Sassafras has committed to a three-year membership.

For Sassafras, the GRA recommended using recycled chlorine-free cups and napkins, incorporating environmental education for guests—including detailed advice for customers at www.mobot.com—and installing aerators for kitchen and bathroom sinks. These devices inject air into the water stream, thus maintaining water pressure while reducing waste.

Heermann took charge of the project, even adding a suggestion of his own. The restaurant already used paper to-go boxes in place of polystyrene, but Heermann took another step by introducing 100 percent recycled paper boxes. Paper takes 20 to 60 days to degrade in a landfill, as opposed to polystyrene which exists almost forever.

“I have kids, and you start thinking about what’s going to happen to your grandkids,” Heermann said. “[Going green] is not going to make a huge difference in the huge scope of things, but it’s definitely going to make a difference.”

The newest changes have had mixed results so far. The new napkins have still not arrived, but the aerators, which reduce water usage from five gallons to 1.2 gallons per minute, are popular with the staff.

“To a man, they said it works better than the old [nozzles],” she said.

Like organic foods and other green purchases, the new equipment can run a high price tag, but Heermann thinks it is are worth the cash. For instance, he chose to ditch Styrofoam cups in favor of paper, even though paper costs slightly more per unit.

“I’ve said that to people before, at least go one step toward green. If you think of every soda you sell, one penny isn’t going to kill your profits.” Because Sassafras has long practiced many sustainable business methods, the GRA improvements were relatively easy.

According to employee Lachelle Shearer, “They were always into recycling, they just got better.”

The restaurant has always recycled. It has always used environmentally-safe products. In 2005, Sassafrass used sustainable materials to renovate the building, like walls made of cork, tabletops made of alfalfa, and paint with low volatile organic compound (VOC) content.

“We came in with some of the really easy low-hanging fruit already done,” Ponzi said.

Nobody is exactly sure what the next step is. One cook has recommended removing all the fryers from the kitchen.

“It’s a big new overhaul, but it’s something we might think about,” Ponzi said. But ultimately, to create significant change, Ponzi knows that she will have to teach customers to make changes of their own. She hopes Sassafras will set an example.

“I think that the more people hear about these principles and practices,” she said, “the more they will take them seriously, and the more they will take them into their homes.”