Lane S. Goodman | Student Life

Gokul, a vegetarian and kosher Indian restaurant that opened a new location on the Loop, offers a buffet for lunch and dinner. Diners can also order á la carte in the restaurant or for take-out.

Hungry vegetable lovers will find sanctuary in Gokul’s all-you-can-eat buffet, which is available for lunch and dinner. The buffet is a rainbow of green, yellow and orange curries, with warm naan, white rice and even fire-engine-red sweet rice.

The one-room restaurant has pale yellow walls and white tablecloths that are made all the brighter by light provided by long windows.

With its welcoming aromas and relaxed feel, this restaurant would be a nice study-spot. I had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Jim Sandhe, who has been in the restaurant business for almost 30 years. He hopes that Washington University students will use Gokul as their hangout place, but hastened to explain that by “hang out,” he means study (like the good students we all are). In fact, Sandhe is working toward his goal by taking steap to enable students to use meal points at his restaurant.

As for the food, it’s excellent. Meat eaters may worry about a vegetarian restaurant’s ability to satiate their appetites. But Gokul pulls through in this way, partially due to a generous helping of heavy cream, which bolstered my two favorite dishes. These were the palak paneer and the vegetable korma. The rich green palak paneer, a spinach-based dish with the consistency of a creamy yogurt, reveals itself step by step. The cream is the first taste to hit the palette, followed by a leafy, earthy spinach flavor. Just as you swallow, the dish delivers a swift kick to finish, a spiciness that lingers and begs for a bite of the sweeter vegetable korma.

The korma sits in a mild coconut sauce, which contains various sweet vegetables including carrots, potatoes, green peas and lima beans. It seemed like the korma had been left to simmer awhile—all the vegetables were very soft. Though the softness was comforting, I would have liked for some of the vegetables to be crispier or firmer for a little variety.

In spite of the textural monotony, the korma pulled through in flavor. It was richer than what I am used to, and had a little kick and a slight sweetness

Those who enjoy heat will like the restaurant’s spicy dishes. The spicy chickpea dish warranted immediate tongue-basting in kheer, aka rice pudding with cardamom. Less heat-oriented myself, I was still able to enjoy a variety of dishes that were mildly spicy, though those who cannot handle any heat whatsoever may find the brunch somewhat exclusory.

Overall the dishes at Gokul’s brunch were sensitively spiced and pleasantly varied. Though I opted for the creamy ones, healthier options are present among the various lentil- and chickpea-based dishes. But who goes to an all-you-can-eat brunch to exercise self-control? I say pile on the saag paneer until you burst into a giant green puddle of cream.

Rasoi offers traditional cuisine from northern India. Dishes like chicken tikka masala are flavorful and aesthetically pleasing. (Matt Mitgang | Student Life)

Rating: 4.5/5 stars
25 N. Euclid Ave.
St. Louis, MO, 63108
www.rasoi.com

Last week, I drove with two friends to the nearby Central West End for dinner. As the cold bit at our ears after we parked the car, our huddled group entered a wave of warmth named Rasoi. The air in this sanctuary-esque restaurant was filled with the alluring smells of Indian spices. We took a minute to observe the colorful room and the crowds of guests devouring mounds of curries before the hostess led our thawing party to a table in the back of the restaurant.

The menu at Rasoi offers a fairly inexpensive dinner (or brunch) with many vegetarian options. In fact, there are more vegetarian options than meat dishes! Appetizers range from $4-$12 and entrées from $12-$18, including a great sampling of courses for $25 (or $16 for vegetarians).

If you’ve been to House of India or Flavor of India (two other popular St. Louis Indian locales), you’ll find that Rasoi is very similar to both. Each restaurant offers the same staples of Indian cuisine, including malai kofta, lamb korma, vegetable korma and palak paneer. Despite their similarities, each restaurant has its upsides and downsides. Rasoi distinguishes itself consistently for its fresh ingredients and lamb korma; these reasons alone are enough to keep me a loyal customer.

On this particular evening, I decided on an order of vegetable samosas and lamb shank korma, served with complimentary white rice. After placing my order, I attempted to enter my friends’ conversation, but I was quickly carried into a dream-like state by the overwhelming scents permeating the air in the dining room. As I began to salivate, the waiter brought my order of samosas to the table, along with several different chutneys, a popular condiment for Indian cuisine. I picked up one of the two puffed pastries and cut it into two parts to release a cloud of flavorful steam. I crunched through several layers of satisfying crust, until I reached the delicately spiced potato mixture inside.

I could go on about how delicious the samosas were, but then I wouldn’t have space to explain the lamb shank korma. More than anything else, this dish motivates me to pick myself up and get back to Rasoi. Though it is one of the more expensive items on the menu, the flavors and textures of this dish easily justify its $18 price tag. Also, it can be split into a half-size portion for a reasonable $9, if you feel you can’t eat the whole dish. Although nothing on the menu has been a disappointment, after trying this dish, I could not imagine ordering anything else.

The waiter brought out the dish: an oversized plate precariously holding a large hunk of juicy lamb, just slipping off its bone, alongside a generous portion of basmati rice, and an assortment of grilled vegetables. My fork slid effortlessly into the lamb meat, and I lifted the first piece into my mouth. I realized, incredulously, that I had never tasted lamb flavored so agreeably.  A couple of times during my meal, I distracted one of my friends and stole a fresh piece of her warm, fluffly naan (an Indian leavened bread), creating a miniature sandwich of naan, rice, grilled carrot and luscious tender warm lamb.

My only complaint about the evening would be the nonchalant attitude of the waiting staff. I got the general feeling that our presence at the restaurant was more of a burden than a pleasure. When we asked if the restaurant split checks, the waiter recommended that we sit at separate tables if we wanted separate bills. Nevertheless, the food (especially the lamb) nullified any desire for hospitality, and I would highly recommend Rasoi to any Indian food enthusiast.

Well, it was their loss. If they had asked, I would have told them about England’s amazing Indian cuisine and the fact that I may have become obsessed with a dish called chana masala.

Inevitably, my first food review back at Wash. U. brought me to a restaurant called House of India. I decided to go out to eat with my vegetarian friend on a Sunday. It just so happens that House of India is indeed one of the only restaurants nearby that is both vegetarian and open on Sundays. (Aside from one restaurant I discovered, which is apparently run by a cult. I decided against that one.)

The restaurant had a bright and pleasant interior. Booths lined the walls, and tables with white cloths graced the center of the room. Rose and light green curtains hung around the windows, which surrounded the dining room. Matching lights hung over the booths. Upbeat Indian music played at an appropriate volume in the background.

Now on to what you really care about: the food. Every day from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., House of India holds a lunch buffet. Classic Indian dishes are offered in addition to a few unique ones you may not have tried before. They serve chicken tikka masala, chana masala, alu gobi, vegetable korma…the list goes on. The buffet was a pretty good deal, too. Without any fancy drinks (we just drank the free water), the whole buffet, which included dessert, cost $8.75 per person.

One of the first dishes I tried, and a favorite among my friends, was a corn salad, which consisted of kernels of corn, cucumbers, tomatoes and red onions. The salad was a refreshing, cool complement to some of the hot and spicy dishes. Another tasty, cool salad called chane-ki-chaat was made with chickpeas, potatoes, chopped cucumber and onions in a mild mint and yogurt sauce.

The warm dishes were all quite good. My favorite was probably the vegetable korma, which was made up of mixed vegetables, including diced potatoes, peas and cauliflower, in a mild curry cream sauce. The chicken tikka masala was also a hit with its tender pieces of roasted chicken breast in a creamy tomato sauce. The alu gobi was another vegetarian masterpiece, made with cauliflower, potatoes, onions and fresh tomatoes.

We also enjoyed the paneer makhni, which was both savory and satisfying. Paneer is a type of cheese made in India and has a texture comparable to tofu. The cheese was sliced into bite-sized squares and mixed in a creamy, buttery tomato sauce. The sauce was outstanding over a bed of white rice. And last but not least, they did indeed serve my beloved chana masala. This chana masala was less sweet than the one I had in England, but it was still quite good. It consisted of steamed chickpeas mixed in a sauce of fresh tomatoes and onions with a hint of ginger and garlic.

After the feast, my friends and I took a breather and then made our way back to the buffet table to try the desserts. A variety of unique options were available. I tried one called jalebi. This bright orange, deep-fried treat was shaped similarly to a pretzel and was about the size of the palm of my hand. It had a crunchy texture and sweet, sugary flavor. My friends remarked that it reminded them of funnel cake, though crunchier but just as delicious.

So whether you’re craving Indian cuisine, have a vegetarian diet or are simply looking for something fun and different to do for lunch, check out the House of India. You certainly won’t leave disappointed, and you most definitely won’t leave with an empty stomach.

8501 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, MO 63124
4/5 stars