 "Photo: Ethan Brandt | Student Life")
4/5 stars
6105 Delmar Boulevard
Saint Louis, Mo. 63130
(314) 721-7947
In the middle of The Loop, an area of St. Louis best described as eclectic, is a restaurant known as Saleem’s, “Where Garlic is King.” If you have never experienced Lebanese cuisine, or even if have you have a passion for it, I suggest stopping by. However, one caveat: If your significant other is anything like mine and has the ability to smell garlic on you days after you have eaten it, then you may be in trouble.
Upon entering, one is overwhelmed by the environment of the place – the walls are orange and covered with tapestries, pictures and beautiful paintings, along with a single American flag. The ceiling of one half of the building is covered in a flowing black and white cloth while another has golden curtains hanging down, along with the occasional hanging lamp. There is also a very small bar with no more than eight seats directly in front of the entrance, displaying a humble selection of spirits, along with five choices of red wines ranging from $19 to $26 per bottle, and white wines ranging from $16 to $28. The beer selection is slightly larger, including a number of brands from Canada, Ireland, Belgium and the U.S., though there are no Lebanese choices. While one is taking all of this in, one might not initially notice the music that is constantly playing throughout the restaurant, which ranges from classic Lebanese style to obviously more modern renditions. The music becomes a very comforting part of the environment. Upon being seated, I noticed an artistic detail that I had initially overlooked: hand-painted tables of fascinating, multicolored designs.
I sat down and glanced at the menu, realizing that this would be a unique experience. The menu is divided into several sections: mezze—meaning snack or appetizer—salads and soups, poultry, beef and lamb, vegetarian and samplers. The mezze section featured options such as fried kibbi, which is described as “lean ground beef and bulghar wheat seasoned with onions,” or garlic pita chips smothered with garlic butter and vegetarian caviar, explained as “grilled eggplant, onions, garlic, tomatoes, roasted bell pepper,” all with yogurt and basil.
The salads and soups options were not simply limited to those that an average American diner would expect, but also included options such as fatoosh made of romaine lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, onions, feta cheese, kalamata onions and toasted pita served with a house dressing.
The vegetarian section, something that is not often seen on menus, contained several appetizing offers: garlic eggplants or mejadarra, a lentil and rice pilaf seasoned with onions. The options for us carnivores were anything but limited, and included options such as beef shawarma: “Beef cutlets marinated in vinegar, cloves, nutmeg and garlic. Smothered with tahini sauce, onions and radishes.”
After asking the server twice to give me more time to decide, I eventually decided on trying the falafel from the mezze choice and the mowzaat from the beef and lamb.
After a notable wait at my table, I was served the falafel: four balls of deep-fried chickpea dough, covered with a tahini sauce, composed of sesame seed, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil. After first breaking open one of the fried puffs, I was assaulted by the smell of curry and hoped that the taste would have much the same flavor, and it did. The dish was also served with a side of 15 or so thin pieces of chewy pita bread that is to be used in much the same way as naan in Indian cuisine. The tahini sauce was tangy, and added accentuation to the very flavorful and filling falafel. The onions and radishes that were served along side also played as an excellent complement to the combination of curry, lemon and garlic. The flavor was remarkably subtle after I became accustomed to the combination, and I greatly appreciated that the dish allowed for every ingredient to play its part without overpowering the next.
As soon as I was finished with my first dish, I was served my second: mowzaat, served with a side dish of rice, a lemon, tomatoes and sauce to flavor to taste. My initial impression of the dish was that it appeared remarkably similar to a home-cooked, country stew. However, the lamb braised with dried fruit, oregano, onions, garlic and cinnamon carried anything but the typical flavor. The remarkably large chunks of lamb, though appearing slightly tough initially, melt in the mouth. After taking a bite, be sure not to swallow immediately, for the longer you wait, the more you will notice the subtle layer of cinnamon that is laced within the complex flavor of lamb. The broth itself is very sweet, but here is a suggestion: add a hint of lemon to the dish and definitely add the rice. This particular rice had the subtle flavor of honey when I tasted it, though I later found out that there was none within the dish. Upon adding the rice to the dish, it brings out a completely new flavor to the broth, which in turn adds another, light element to the meat itself. Another suggestion is to try the lamb with everything that is in the bowl and on the plate, including the fruits and the onions, for each brings out a new level of taste to the meat, which, by itself, is not the most flavorful of lamb. The reason that I decided to order a lamb dish is that it is a dish that is either cooked very well or not well at all; I must say, after finishing the dish, that the lamb’s flavor, though subtle, served its purpose well and was prepared skillfully.
The only dessert that offered was a walnut baklava, which is one of my favorite desserts. However, I must confess that I committed a sin while reviewing this restaurant: I did not try the dessert. Simply put, the previous two dishes were quite filling and heavy, preventing me from even contemplating ordering the baklava. I admit that I wish that I could have tried it, but I fear that I would not have appreciated the dish, being as full as I was, without even finishing each dish.
Saleem’s provides wonderful, hearty dishes that are especially fitting for the cold weather, and an even more inviting environment. I will be sure to visit again when I have a completely empty stomach. And remember: “Where Garlic is King.”
Be the first to comment on this article!