Stepping Out: Pizzeria Della Piazza
Ryan JacobsonPizzeria Della Piazza
5100 Daggett Ave.
Price Range: $6-10
The Hill’s Pizzeria Della Piazza is the Shangri-La of the St. Louis pizza scene. But hungry Wash. U. students may just about need a treasure map to get there. The restaurant is a well-kept secret, tucked away about a block from Kingshighway. Once found, though, Pizzeria Della Piazza does not disappoint.
Pizza is a simple food, but at Pizzeria Della Piazza it becomes something special. Just as Rodin worked in marble, dough and sauce are the media for the artists behind this family-owned pizzeria. The abundant cheese and toppings add to a masterpiece worthy of a culinary Louvre.
The menu at Pizzeria Della Piazza is clear-cut. A few appetizer and pasta options are present, but the focus here is clear. Diners are given a choice of thin crust, pan and stuffed pizzas. On our most recent visit, the group sampled all three crusts.
We began by delving into a thin-crust pie. We were immediately relieved to see that it was not your average St. Louis-style pizza. It was covered with classic mozzarella cheese, as opposed to the provel you might find at your local Imo’s. The crust also departed from St. Louis tradition. Instead of a cracker-like crust, Pizzeria Della Piazza features a crust with much more texture and taste. The thin crust did possess a nice crunch but also maintained some moisture. In general, we were impressed by the thin crust. It was, however, easily overshadowed by the more substantial pizzas on the menu.
We found the next pizza we sampled, the pan pizza, to be a real treat. Displaced Chicagoans will take special pleasure in this delectable pie. The pan pizza stands about two inches tall and the menu boasts that depending on the size, it is covered with between one and two pounds of cheese. We believed this statistic as soon as we tried dishing out the first piece – gooey, delicious cheese capable of stretching several feet. The sauce, found on top of the crust and cheese on these Chicago-style pies, had a nice, fresh tomato zing. The crust was tasty as well, but it may have been a bit too bready; that is, it was a bit heavy on the spongy texture. One could attempt to rectify this problem by ordering the pizza well-done.
The stuffed pizza is another intriguing choice. This stuffed pizza is not the same thing as the “stuffed crust” option at pizzeria wannabes like Pizza Hut. Instead, stuffed refers to the toppings and cheese. Take, for instance, the pepperoni pizza we decided to try. We were delighted to find a thick crust, topped by a helping of cheese and pepperoni. This was covered by a thin layer of dough, and then by an additional layer of cheese, followed by a layer of sauce. This massive pie was definitely tasty, but also a bit too heavy. A mere piece left us feeling like we required a gastric operation at nearby Barnes-Jewish Hospital. Therefore, we feel that the pan pizza is the best of the bunch. It makes for a substantial meal but will not elevate your BCC to the same unsafe levels (note: BCC stands for blood-cheese content).
The atmosphere at Pizzeria Della Piazza was a fun one. This is a relaxing place to start off a weekend. The dining areas are modestly decorated and the wait staff is helpful but not overbearing. One service feature at Pizzeria Della Piazza that we particularly enjoyed was the unique system for calling over the waiter. On the table stands a plastic sign, with green on one side and red on the other. When something is needed, it can be turned green side out, and is otherwise kept showing red. This ensured that the waitress visited us when we needed her, while letting us have our conversation, too.
In sum, the mammoth creations at Pizzeria Della Piazza are well worth the short drive. The pan pizza especially is a shining star and is really not to be missed by anyone at Wash. U. who feels a hankering for some good pizza. While you may have a special place in your heart for that favorite pizzeria from back home, surely everyone in St. Louis has a place in his or her stomach for a slice from Pizzeria Della Piazza.
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